A long weekend in Portugal

Well pals, in line with my terrible time-keeping, I’m currently en route to New Zealand (and editing this on mobile, so apologies for all the mistakes) for the next stage of my mid-life crisis. Canada was just so good I’m keeping on going!

But first, Portugal. I landed back in the UK in july, went to the most beautiful wedding up north, then hoped right back on a plane again! Amy and I spent a couple days in both Porto and Lisbon, enjoying the sun and many pasteis de nata.

Porto

Our first city was my favourite. Porto’s much smaller and centralised than Lisbon, which makes getting your bearings super straightforward, especially if you’re directionally challenged like me. Our first port of call, after settling into a vibrantly yellow apartment, was Momo Gelataria for a well-deserved ice cream. Honestly, it was probably the best ice cream of the trip, but the flight delays coming over might have made it seem that much sweeter.

We managed to take in the main sights over two days; the Castle, with all it’s pretty blue tiling and views out over endless terracotta rooves, then along the Promenade where market stalls competed to sell the same cork trinkets along the waterside. The Torre dos Clerigos was a highlight, the steps to the tower winding round the church hall with a particularly interesting window from behind the main crucifix…it’s certainly a novel angel to view the church from! For a bit of relaxation we caught a bus to the seaside town of Foz, windy but delivering on the promised sea and stoney beaches.

Livaria Lello, the bookshop made famous as inspiration for the library at Hogwarts, was a crushed, beautiful mess. We made the mistake of lining up in the secondary queue before buying tickets, resulting in my rushing madly to the even-longer first queue, and managing to purchase tickets online before either I reached a teller or Amy reached the door; success! The bookshop interior is beautiful, all vibrant twisting staircases and shelves piles with books, but the people watching really made it. Tourists posing artistically reading against the stacks, angled to minismise the people crushed like sardines around them, or holding up traffic to get that perfect shot on the stairs.

Lisbon

The journey from Porto to Lisbon should have been straightforward, just a couple hour train ride, but unfortunately for us a fire on the track ahead doubled the journey. We slowly drew past the smouldering remains of trees and outhouses some four hours later, and made it into Lisbon in time for a quick explore, and plenty of sangria and tapas.

On our first proper day in Lisbon we caught a train to Sintra, completely forgetting to check the weather and therefore seeing the beautiful views through a thick cloud of fog. It slowly cleared as morning passed, but the clouds did add a certain layer of mystery to the lush historical sights. You could definitely spend a whole day there, but Amy and I decided against paying to go in every single building, electing to enter the Quinta da Regaleira and hiking round the outskirts of the others.

From Sintra we caught transit to Belem, to try the infamous Pasteis de Belem (really good, though you should refer to Amy’s instagram for the full rundown of pastry rating). Whilst there we entered the gorgeous free church attached to the Jeronimos Monastery (but again decided not to pay to actually go round the monastery) and wandered along the waterfront with the Tower of Belem jutting out, surrounded by wine vans and people enjoying the sunshine. It’s a pretty little place, full of good food and sights, and definitely worth the bus ride out.

There are also plenty of markets in Lisbon; we went to the LX Factory to see the magical bookshop (where you must get a tour from the eccentric inventor) then onto Time Out Market for dinner (which is full of choices, but also quite similar to all the other market halls popping up these days).

Our final Lisbon sight was the Castelo de Sao Jorge, an eclectic mix of christian and muslim architecture dating back to the 8th century BCE. It affords glorious views over the white and terracotta jumble of the city, out to the sea and rolling hills opposite. It was a lovely end to the trip, to wander along the ramparts, warm stone beating heat back onto our (well, my) pale skin.

And that was Portugal! We ate a lot of food (the flaming chourico was a particular favourite of ours, although we definitely overdid it and couldn’t bear another mouthful after three nights straight), saw a lot of sights and didn’t get sunburnt at all! I’d missed the warm air and rich history of Western Europe, and it was so nice to share it with my sister.

Vacating Vancouver

It’s finally happening… I’m leaving Vancouver! I’m headed to Alberta for the next few months, hopefully exploring the Rockies and getting my equestrian fix at the Calgary Stampede. Most of you will know I never gelled with this city, despite it seeming like a dream on paper (mountains, oceans, the outdoors…sounds so ideal, right?), so I am super excited to leave. It’s been a jam-packed few months and it looks like the next few are going to be full of adventure too.

So, a quick roundup of my final few British Columbia adventures:

Road-tripping to Kelowna

Breakfast at Cultus Lake

Giant’s Head Hike

After nearly a year apart, my schoolfriend Wiggy and I finally met up in Canada! He was passing through Vancouver so I joined him on a gorgeous mini-roadtrip through the interior. We left early, stopping for breakfast at Cultus Lake, basking in the sun while the porridge cooked, diverting briefly to explore the Othello Tunnels, an old railway tunnel cut through rock and waterfalls, and passing through quaint towns (hello Hedley, where there was a sundome made of cracked car windscreens and streets straight out of the wild west) before finally stopping near the Okanagan Valley for the night.

It was an interesting night, sleeping on the floor of Wiggy’s converted car/house, having convinced the laden vehicle to make it up a rutted, rocky path to the free campsite. We ate popcorn by the fire, watched the sun set over the valley, and I was eaten alive by mosquitoes. These are the adventures I came to Canada for and, despite itching like a mad, diseased thing, it was glorious.

The next day we went for an early morning dip in Skaha Lake and drove on towards Penticton. The entire drive was lush, filled with green forests and mountains, tracing the path of the rushing rivers through vineyards and farmland. Near Penticton we hiked up Giants Head, accidentally driving most of the way after google maps directed us to the car park at the top of the hike, already sweltering in the morning sun. Then it was on to Kelowna, where we took the Apex Trail up Knox Mountain to the viewpoint, looking out over Okanagan River, Kelowna and beyond. Kelowna was beautiful, the main drag dotted with little bars and cafes, people strolling along the promenade, surrounded by glistening water and the ever rising mountains. It felt much more welcoming than Vancouver, and it was with a heavy heart that I left both Wiggy and the interior.

Sunset Hike up Tunnel Bluffs

Nearly falling off the top of Tunnel Bluffs

The fluorescent pink sunset at Tunnel Bluffs

The next adventure came in the form of a facebook post; a frenchman looking for company on his sunset hike. Kirst and I signed up, piling into a strange man’s car one afternoon (which has surprisingly become the norm for Vancouver-based adventures) and heading to Squamish. The hike itself was short and sharp, taking a hidden path from the carpark up towards a lookout point, climbing through forests and rocky outcrops until it opened out to another spectacular view.

We stayed at the top for ages, watching the sky turn a fluorescent pink that photos couldn’t capture, Bowen Island casting dark shadows and the highway slowly lighting up with pinprick headlights. We ate dinner there, growing colder as the frenchman took photo after photo, well into the night. It was dark by the time we left, stars sparkling overhead (and I hadn’t realised how much I’d missed them in the city brightness of Vancouver), the tiny beams of our headlamps illuminating the path down. It was terrifying and exhilarating, negotiating the bumps and rolls of the forest, every tiny rustle becoming a bear in my head, consciously making noise to scare wildlife away. Still, we made it back to Vancouver safe and sound, and with a new adventure buddy (no, not the frenchman, but Ang, the fourth fellow on this mad trip).

Mount Gardner 

The top of Mt Gardner, Bowen Island

Salmonberry snacking on Bowen Island

Keen to tick off as many hikes as possible, Kirst and I headed back to Bowen Island one sunny day to complete the big one, Mt Gardner. A 17km round trip climbing ~700m through densely packed forest and dubiously marked trail, its peak provided glorious views over the sunshine coast and Vancouver Island. My trail navigation skills (aka my ability to read a smartphone map) were tested when the path turned into felled trees and dead foliage, but we made it to the helicopter pads on the top for a leisurely lunch and sunbathe. On the way down we came across what we’d later identify as Salmonberries, a British Columbia native similar to a blackberry and perfect for post-hike snacking. It was a long, long day of walking, topped off by fish and chip dinner at the famous Trolls in Horseshoe Bay.

Whistler

The Ice Walls at Whistler

Train Wreck, Whistler

Lost Lake, Whistler, with Kirst & Ang

Whistler was a whole different experience in Summer compared to Winter, though the snow is still very much present on the Ice Walls. I had initially planned on cycling there but heavy rain put those plans off, so instead I chucked the bike on a bus and up I went! The crossbike got a proper workout there (and yes, I finally got a bike! It’s amazing! I love it so much!), taking in the gravel singletrack around Lost Lake and the undulating dirt paths to the Train Wreck. I had a blast whizzing round the trails while Kirst and Ang had their mountain bike lesson, enjoying being able to play on a bike again, throwing myself up and down hills and getting lost in the woods. The Train Wreck was amazing to visit, this decaying juxtaposition of urban development with natures unyielding growth, all rusted metal and towering greenery.

The main reason for our visit were the Ice Walls up on Whistler Mountain, so the three of us took a gondola to the top, spotting two brown bears and their cubs on the way up. It was incredible to see the once-snow covered ski slopes melted away to downhill mountain bike trails and dense green forest. Until, of course, we reached the top. There we took a trail to the Suspension Bridge, the ice walls growing and brightening until they were over 10ft tall and ominously white. As we climbed, the mist rolled in and the temperature dropped, snow battering down at the peak. It felt like a fairytale, so far removed from the sunshine in the valley below, an entirely different reality.

After walking back down, Ang and I took the Peak 2 Peak Gondola across to Blackcomb mountain, where we were surprised by furry little Marmottes dashing around on the grass. It was a beautiful morning up on the mountain, a mad mix of alpine summer and everlasting winter, and of course incredible views. The season changed yet again when we reached the village, and on our walk round Lost Lake it was midsummer once more, sun beating down overhead and the lake tempting us with its coolness. The minibreak in Whistler was over too fast, but filled with wonder and good company, and a much-needed escape from the city.

Deep Cove 

SUP in Deep Cove

The final proper adventure came in the form of stand-up paddleboarding around Deep Cove. The week before had been gloriously hot and sunny, so of course the day we’d planned this dawned grey and drizzly. Still, sunshine was promised later on, so Ang and I took our bathers and headed to the marina. We hiked up Quarry Rock in the morning, so much busier than my first winter visit there, and rocked up ready to paddleboard with warmed-up limbs. The cove was pretty choppy, boats speeding past occasionally, but it was so good to be out on the water, taking a dip off one of the little beaches along the way (and I use the term “beach” loosely, being a rocky cove that bit into our feet when we touched down).

Goodbye BC

And that’s been it! The past week I’ve been cramming in a few final visits – namely getting a sub 1hr Grouse Grind (hard work) and cycling up Cypress Mountain (also hard work, but totally worth it for the 60kmh blast back down). I’ve finished work at the bike shop and packed up all my gear, said goodbye to the wonderful people I’ve met here and said good riddance to the city. The last five months have been filled with challenges and I’m proud of myself for sticking to it, even if I did have a few breakdowns on the way.

So, finally, goodbye Vancouver! I’ve got 5 hours left here before I board the Greyhound bus to Calgary (a 15 hour nightbus of delight, I’m sure), hoping and praying that my overweight bike box and crammed-full backpack make it on board with me. I still haven’t made it back into science, but the impending change of scene has made me excited for what’s to come.